This is a beautiful, enjoyable and not too strenious (well moderate) circular walk from Beddgelert. The walk goes along the exciting Pass of Aberglaslyn, then up the hill overlooking Beddgelert, before droping down sharply to the lake Llyn Dinas, and finally making it’s way back to Beddgelert, via the Sygun Copper Mine.

This walk gives an excellent taster to Snowdonia -- part scenic gorge walk, part upland boggy moorland with glimpses of Wales’ mining heritage and with beautiful views across the valley to the mountains around Beddgelert. It is perfect to escape from the tourist trap of Beddgelert, or if you want to avoid the higher mountainous areas (due to weather or fatique!)

I have done this walk about six or so times now -- and I am still not bored of it. For some reason I always start from the main car park in Beddgelert (£3 for half a day or £5 for the day off the top of my head!), perhaps so I am sure of a pub at the end, but you can also start the walk from a car park near Nantmoor.

Beddgelert

Beddgelert (meaning Gelert’s grave) is, at peak,  jammed full of  tourists -- for good reason as it is picturesque, with a pretty bridge over the river Colywn, and there are plenty of pubs, cafes, and hotels. The Beddgelert tourism site claims that “Beddgelert is undoubtedly Snowdonia’s loveliest village” (something backed up by the Snowdonia Guide) -- and do you know what, I would probably agree.

There is a wonderful legend relating to Beddgelert -- something I was blissfully unaware of until a chatty old chap on the hilltop told me my dog was like Gelert. The legend is that Gelert was a dog, owned by Llywelyn the Great -- Prince of Gwynedd, who is supposed to be buried nearby (hence Gelert’s grave). This trip was the first time I have actually visited the grave, where there is a memorial plaque:

‘In the thirteenth century, Llywellyn, Prince of North Wales had a palace at Beddgelert. One day he went hunting without Gelert,’the faithful hound’, who was unaccountably absent. On Llywellyn’s return the truant, stained and smeared with blood, joyfully sprang to his master. The prince, alarmed, hastened to find his son and saw the infant’s cot empty, the bedclothes and floor covered with blood. The frantic father plunged his sword into the hound’s side, thinking it had killed his heir. The dog’s dying yelp was answered by the child’s cry. Llywellyn searched and discovered his boy unharmed, but nearby lay the body of a mighty wolf, which Gelert had slain. The prince filled with remorse, is said never to have smiled again. He buried Gelert here.’

What a wonderful story (I can just imagine my dog doing the same), but it is of course complete rubbish. The story has Celtic origins, and was embellished by an eighteenth century innkeeper of the Goat Hotel, David Pritchard, eager to foster the tourist trade and it was he who was responsible for the grave (the actual Gelert is likely to be a Celtic Saint). The Goat Hotel is still in Beddgelert and, for the record, serves a very nice pint of Guinness!

Pass of Aberglaslyn

Following the river downstream, you quickly leave the tourists behind. After crossing the newly rebuilt railway line, the river starts to narrow and you enter the ravine.

There are many gorgous places in Snowdonia, but this is quite possibly one of my favourites. The path starts quite sedately, but quickly becomes harder going as you have to navigate around and over rocks, along narrow ledges (there are hand holds!) and over small bridges with the waters churning just below you -- it is quite spectacular!

The first time I did this walk, in 2007, it was just after the huge floods across the country. The path had been closed off previously, as the river had flooded so badly that it had even partially destroyed the bridge at Nantmoor (no mean feat) -- the path had just reopened for my walk, but the river was still seething angrily down the ravine.

Hill Climb

At the Nantmoor bridge, the walk bears to the left, past a National Trust carpark, and starts climbing North East following a small valley and river upstream (it is marked on the map as Cwm Bychan, which means ‘’small valley’). As you come out of the trees, after an initial fairly steep climb -- there is a lovely spot next to a small waterfall to the right -- very tranquil!

The valley continues climbing steady (but not steeply) towards the top of the hill (it actually goes around the actual summit). Along the way there are various scattered remains of the hill’s mining past -- this whole area has been mined since the Roman times (rather than describe them, you can see them in the video below!)

At the top, there are some great views across the valley towards Moel Hebog (another, much more strenuous, enjoyable walk!). From here a steep path winds down the hillside to the shores of Llyn Dinas. snowdoniaguide.com sheds some light on the origins of the name:

The lake derives its name from the nearby hillfort of Dinas Emrys, the remains of medieval and Dark Age fortifications. The fort provided shelter for the British king Vortigern, who escaped into Wales from the invading Anglo-Saxons. After the demise of Vortigern, the fort became the property of Aurelius Ambrosius, known as Emrys Wledig or the Emperor, from which the present name of the fort derives

Legend states the lake to have been the site of a battle between Owein, one of Arthur’s greatest warriors, and a giant. According to legend, Vortigern is said to have hidden the throne of Britain beneath a great stone by Llyn Dinas.

The lake is certainly very picturesque! From the lake follow the river back towards Beddgelert via the Sygun Copper Mine. I have to admit that, despite having visited the area many times over the last few years, I have never visited the Copper Mine. I would love to one day, but I always have the problem of what to do with the dog!

Whilst finishing this post (several months after starting it!) I came across this brilliant video, filmed in 2008,  showing Beddgelert and some snippets from this walk -- it is well worth watching!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKaUSznjhyU

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In “Map Addict” (which I hope to review when I finish it!), Mike Parker explains how he used to make visitors place a pin in a map where they felt they most belonged (not lived, but belonged). Without barely a thought, I would place my pin in Snowdonia near Rhyd Ddu (just west of Snowdon)

I love Snowdonia. Being surrounded by such amazing scenery has a powerful effect on me – the rugged mountains, the dense forests, the remote moorlands, and the rivers, steams and waterfalls surging down the slopes. Snowdonia makes me feel alive and at peace with myself.

A few months ago I made, what is starting to become a regular occurance, a pilgramage to Rhyd Ddu with a group of friends. We were staying in the self-catered farmhouse managed, and presumably owned, by The Cwellyn Arms.

I first discovered The Cwellyn Arms in August last year – I was staying in a campsite on the Llyn Peninsula, and had decided to make my first attempt to climb a mountain – The Nantlle Ridge. Unfortunately I was forced back by the weather (I finally defeated it on this trip) and instead headed into Rhyd Ddu following the “PH” symbol on the map.

The Cwellyn Arms was nothing short of magical – there were several log fires burning, real ales on tap, and friendly staff who were happy for me to wander in with my muddy boots and even muddier dog. The dog curled up in front of the fire, and as I supped on my ale (the name has long been forgotten!), I watched a young couple (just back from a walk) playing chess in the corner. This is my kind of pub!

I returned the next day, after having climbed Moel Hebog, to try the food – the quality was outstanding! The prices aren’t cheap, but are certainly worth it (they are listed in the “Which Good Food Guide”). I spotted a flyer for their self-catered cottage, farmhouse, bunk house and campsite – and vowed to return.

I returned at the start of December with a group of friends. We had booked the farmhouse, which has two bedrooms (one with a double and a single, and one with two doubles and a single), a lounge with log fire (wood provided), a full stocked kitchen (including huge fridge and freezer, flasks, and all the pots, pans and utensils you can think of!) and a conservatory (with a double sofa bed and large windows looking out over snowdon).

The views are what really get to me – you are almost completely surrounded by moutains. To the one side you have Snowdon, and the peaks of Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, and Foel Gron. To another side Mynydd Mawr. There is a lake, Llyn Cwellyn, a few hundred yards from the farmhouse (the campsite is between the farmhouse and the lake). The farmhouse is about fifteen minutes walk from Rhyd Ddu – so you feel really isolated. The walk from the pub at night is an experience, the dark mountains tower around you against the slightly lighter sky (although annoingly on the last visit some idiot left the Snowdon cafe lights on, which sort of spoilt the effect!)

I am looking forward to experiencing the owners hospitality again soon – in fact I am already planning a return visit next month!

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It’s distinctive shape from the south-west has earned The Cnicht the title of ‘The Welsh Matterhorn’.

It is an interesting steep ascent, with some scrambling at the end, followed by a gentle walk along the more wilder ridge beyond to the disused Rhosydd and Croesor slate quarries before descending back into Croesor.

It was a beautiful sunny day, the day after climing the Nantlle Ridge, that a group of friends and I arrived in Croesor, ready to climb The Cnicht.

On the route from Beddgelert (Croesor is about 15 minutes drive), you don’t really get to see much of the Cnicht. Not until the final approach to Croesor on the tiny single track road, off the A4085, do you get a glimpse of it’s profile.

The mountain gets its name from the old English word ‘knight’, the silent ‘k’ being pronounced at that time. It is said that the shape of the mountain bears a similarity with a knight’s helmet.
Source – Wikipedia

I have to admit having just spent a happy hour or so flicking through ‘The History of Chivalry and Armor’ (translated from the original 19th century French edition) – looking at the gorgeous colourful illustrations, trying to find a picture of a helmet in the shape of The Cnicht. I presume it is named after some kind of conical Anglo-Saxon helmet?

So, armed with a downloadable Viewranger guided walk, we set off. The free carpark was full, but there we managed to find some on road parking nearby. The climb is progressively steady, only becoming very strenous towards the peak. The views as you ascend quickly become fantastic, especially across to Porthmadog and Tremadog Bay.

There is a sheltered plateau, just below the peak, which makes a lovely resting point before tackling the final ascent, which requires some enjoyable hands on scrabbling. The views from the summit are spectacular – rather than my slightly inferior photos, I have found this wonderful 360 degree panorama on the BBC website.

From the summit, there is a gentle, easy to follow, route along the ridge to a pair of lakes – Llynnau Diffwys. From here, the route we were following continues to the disused Rhosydd and Croesor slates quarries. However at this point the troops were restless, and the pub was calling (well it was a hot day!) So rather than exploring the quarries, we took the more direct footpath past the resevoir and down to what was presumably originally the quarry supply road.

It was a shame not to have had the time to explore the quarries – slate mining has played such an important part in the history and geography of this part of Britain. I did intend to write about both quarries, but it just doesn’t seem right without having at least looked around them (well the parts that are accessible anyway)! So I guess that I will have to come back, not just to visit the quarries, but to also tackle the neighouring peaks of Moelwyn Mamw and Moelwyn Back. I am already looking forward to it!

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Often described as a classic ridge walk, The Nantlle Ridge has a fairly strenous climb, some great views (especially across to Snowdon), some exciting scrabling (Grade 1 apparantly), and a ridge with some dramatic sheer drops.

The Nantlle Ridge, well at least the part including the peaks of Y Garn, Drws-y-Coed and Trum y Ddysgl, has been my nemisis. The walk isn’t too difficult (I think it is classed as “Moderate”), but the last two attempts I have made I have been forced back by the weather.

This part of the Nantlle Ridge is accessible from Rhyd-Ddu, off the A4085 (just North of Beddgelert). The route map and guide are available from go4awalk.com, or is available to download as a guided walk direct to your phone with Viewranger. I also stumbled across a free walk description on the Walking Britain website.

The first time I attempted this climb was in August 2008. It was a rainy week of camping on the Lleyn Pennisular, and in my infinite wisdom, I decided to undertake my first mountain climb by attempting the Nantlle Ridge. By the time I had got to the first peak of Y Garn, I could barely see my hand in front of my face. Fortunately a friendly fellow walker on his way down from Drws-y-Coed, recommended that as a novice it would not be sensible to attempt to go further, so I abandoned the climb and headed back to the pub in Rhyd-Ddu. With hindsight, after seeing some of the drops and the scrabling, this was a very sensible decision!

The second attempt at The Nantlle Ridge was in December 2008. It was a surprisingly nice day for December – sunny, clear skys, and not too cold once you got started. I was with a group of friends – we made it to Y Garn with no problems, but as we started the scrable up to Drws-y-Coed, the moss on the rocks higher up became icy and slippy. This was causing problems to both the dog and a friend with no grip on her walking boots, so we decided to turn back rather than having any mishaps – with hindsight we had actually reached the final boulder with an easier path to follow behind, but better to be safe than sorry.

So on a hot May afternoon, Alex and I decided to tackle the ridge from the other side. Rather than taking the direct steep ascent upto Y Garn, we continued to follow the path from Rhyd Ddu into Beddgelert Forest.

I have to admit that I am not very fond of Beddgelert Forest, a Forestry Commission forest mainly planted with conifers and broadleaves – my experience of it has been either trudging along wide and dull roads, or, after a decent from Moel Lefn, following a footpath that was more swamp than path (and associated biting insects).

The forest path climbs slowly but steadily – but once through the forest, you begin the ascent to Trum y Ddysgl in anger. The final quarter of a mile is a killer walking up an extremely steep grass slope – but once on the ridge, the views are amazing, especially across the ridge to Drws-y-Coed. After a well earned rest, we followed the ridge – trying not to think about the jaw dropping cliff to our left – to Drws-y-Coed and then scrambled down to Y Garn. After enjoying the spectacular 360 degree views, especially across to Snowdon, we dropped steeply down to Rhyd-Ddu and a well earning pint (or two) in the pub!

I am really glad to have finally managed to beat (at least this part) of the Natille Ridge. My inability to successfully complete the walk was really starting to knock my confidence in my, and my dog’s ability, to climb mountains. She incidentally absolutely loved the walk – she is like a mountain goat leaping from stone to stone, and was completely unphased by the sheer drops!

Throughout the walk, Alex (who is joining me on Offa’s Dyke for MS next year) and I discussed how this walk is only half of what is expected in just one day of the forteen day Offa’s Dyke walk. To quote Alex, we are going to have to “man up”!

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